Sunday, June 16, 2013

MUSE in Porto

Estádio do Dragão

I discovered the British music band MUSE when I was living in Cardiff, 8 years ago and since I truly wanted to see them playing live. I missed the chance to do so last October when they came to Madrid and I was determinate to fly wherever they played next. So I booked the tickets for Porto the first day they went available and reserve my flights the same day.
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Muse at Estadio do Dragao ticket 

Born in Galicia

As a Galician, I have been in Portugal several times because the proximity of my mother land to this country but my only visit to Porto was that short I thought it would be fair to go there again and make sure I discover the little secrets this World Heritage Town has to offer.
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Independence square

Car Hire
The trip was planned so I departed from Valencia Airport and landed in Porto 70 minutes later. Although the rental car desks are very conveniently placed at the arrivals building, and the fleet also just outside the terminal building, Porto is a very tricky labyrinth of up and down old and narrow streets, so I didn't feel confident enough to drive a hired car from Tipoa Francisco Sá Carneiro Porto Airport but walking and using public transport this time.
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Car rental desks at Porto Airport

Downtown

My modest hotel was located very close to the Praça da Batlha, downtown. So I took the metro's line E (violet) at the airport and switch in Trindade station to line D (yellow) to San Bento train station.
This station has been named as the most beautiful in the world.
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Blue and white mosaics at San Bento

Shopping
From there, just a 5 minutes walk there is located Santa Catalina St, the most popular shopping area in town, that I didn't mean to avoid having a look inside the shops but as it was Sunday, most of them were closed.

International brands as Zara, Benetton, Fnac,... share the pedestrian street that someone says it reminds them to Florianápolis town, in Brazil, known as the  prettiest island in the country and where Tipoa Florianápolis Airport office can provide you with any type of car you wish to discover the landscapes on the isle.

Via Catarina shopping centre hosts dozens of shops and also a whole floor of bars. Very useful to shelter ourselves in this erratic atlantic weather.
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Staying

The Porto Novo Hostal is located in 185 Alexandre Herculano and it consists in a four floor completely refurbished building, providing bathroom in suit in all bedrooms, , 24 hours reception and a small area with t.v., sofas and kitchen. I got a double room for 25 euros/night.

Be aware that even the price includes a free wifi connection, at the top floors the signal is too weak. 
I suggested the staff to place a second access point so the signal can be reachable from all levels... In the meanwhile, if you stay there, you will have to sit with your mobile device close to reception... :)
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Views from my hotel window

Popping around

Some of the buildings I could visit were, i.e. the Santo Ildefonso Church presides the Praça da Batalha, covered in blue and white tiles as many other monuments in Porto.

I spent the rest of the day walking up and down the old streets of the ancient Porto...
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Saint Ildefonso church

                         
 
                        


Vila Nova de Gaia from Ribeira


...to end at the popular Ribeira, where the traditional cuisine bars and restaurants are located by the Douro (Golden) River.



Ravelo boats visitors from one river to the other, and on board some of them also they can even try a Port wine.



For just €1.50 I could taste one of the most known soups in Portugal, the "Caldo Verde" (Green Broth) or, if you happen to be there in June as I was, then grilled sardines are a must. 
Bigger and tastier than the ones from the Mediterranean Sea, the sardines caught in Atlantic waters are simply delicious.

Don Luiz Bridge

O Morro Vila Nova de Gaia
O Morro ao longe

Sitting by the Ribeira side of the Douro River, on 87 Muro Dos Bacalhoeiros Streey, I enjoyed an "açorda" , made of rustic bread, lovely seafood and poached egg, all accompanied with a bottle of the region's Vinho Verde (Green Wine) at Restaurant O Muro, a friendly family run business which you will leave satisfyingly full.

After crossing the Don Luiz bridge I arrived in the town of Vila Nova de Gaia, where I could sit outdoors in one of the terraces of the many bars and cellars (Caves) on Cândido dos Reis Street.
The Garden at Santa Marinha Parish is partiality seen from the bottom of the hill (Morro) where the funicular departs from.



Chestnut Stew

Kid stew
A typical ingredient in Portugal's cuisine is the chestnut. I tried a kid's stew cooked in red wine sauce and chestnuts puree at the Adega e Presuntaria Transmontana, a very popular place for locals, with a full range of self service bar of desserts. I was offered three different boards: cured meats, ham, cheeses. Also rustic bread, herrings and olives. 
Be aware of the huge portions bars and restaurants serve: I highly recommend to share the dishes rather than ending wasting a lot of food. 

Pastelarias

Cafe Majestic inside
The busiest cafe in town is the Café Majestic, on Santa Catalina Street. Visitors and clients queue to sit at its terrace or to get inside and enjoy a homemade iced tea (chã gelado) or just take a few photos of the old fashion mirrored walls. 

The Coliseum, offering lots of shows and concerts during this summer season, also can be found in its surroundings.
Bolo de arroz


Portuguese love their sweets and there are plenty of Pastelarias all around town. Also cafe shops offer a wide choice of typical desserts and pastries.

Try a typical "bolo de arroz" (cake made of rice) and be sure you will try to bake back home!



Transportes Intermodais do Porto

Cartão do metro
The night of the concert (Monday 10th) I took the metro from Trindade station, one of the three lines (blue A; red B; and violet E) that end at the Estádio do Dragão

Make sure you get a proper ticket wherever you go by metro. Although there are not barriers to go down to the platforms, you might be fined if asked by a Transportes Intermodais do Porto employee and you cannot present a valid one. 

New €5 note

I knew Portuguese are kind and smiley friendly people and they proved so once again when the metro employeeshelped me to top up the travel voucher I got from the airport.


They also warned me that the new 5 euro note is not yet recognised by the automatic ticket machine.


By the time the concert was over, the latest trains of the day waited for those concert attendants who wanted to get back home or enjoy a drink in the popular "Bares" (pubs) area.  What a great organisation! 



Renfe

Cercanías de Madrid
Coming back to Valencia was tricky as no flights were available on Tuesday with Ryanair. So I flew to Madrid, where I took the free bus from Terminal 1 to Terminal 4 building and I was able to get a Renfe cercanías train to Atocha railway station, where I got the AVE (High Speed) to Valencia Joaquín Sorolla

Portugal Day

Muse stage
45000 souls singing
This MUSE concert became the best live show I have ever been. 

Their amazing sound lasted for two hours. The shortest two hours of the 45,000 fans from Spain and Portugal congregate in Porto on the Portugal National Day