Tuesday, October 2, 2012

Berlin Quiet Calm Vibrant and Exciting


velo taxi
Fancy a trip?
Berlin is quiet and calm at the same time that vibrant and exciting. Traffic moves smoothly and bicycles and velo taxi are everywhere thanks to the hundreds of km of bike lanes laid around the 900 sq km area of the city and surroundings...

...Neat and clean as all the areas of Germany I have seen so far. An example of this tidiness is the very good condition of toilets at bars, restaurants and public toilets. There are also attendants that watch over the facilities who would appreciate a tip as a token of gratitude.

Coffee by Chancellor's
Cafe where to wave to the boats which cross the Spree
Although Berlin is not a chaotic big city someone would like to escape from, residents and visitors love the fact they can sit, walk and enjoy the greenery and the sun in any of the numerous oasis in town or along the shores of the river Spree.

Berlin became the capital city of Germany after the reunification and moving all the political and official institutions from Bonn to Berlin cost more than 18,000,000,000 € ! at that time!
However, works are endless in Berlin. Everywhere I laid my ayes on, there was something going on: scaffoldings, tunnels, bulldozers... A kind of showing off message for the rest of Europe?

ROAD
The German Bundesautobahnen (abbreviated 'BAB') are the motorways in Germany.
German motorways have no speed limit, but the advisory is 130 kph. Accidents or car crashes are not that common as it could seem. 7.2 road fatalities per 100,000 motor vehicles in comparison to France (12) or Spain (10; car crashes have become one of the first causes of death!) both countries with very strict speed limits.
In 2012 autobahn network has a total length of 12,845 kilometres which ranks as the 4th longest highway system in the world behind China, the United States, and Spain.

Tips for those who intend to drive a rental car in Germany:
On the contrary of many parts of Spain where drivers are not very polite and don't pay attention what lane they are running, in Germany the right lane must be used when it is free and the left-hand lane is generally reserved for overtaking, so drivers driving left lane for too long when other lanes are free could be fined.
Something that must be avoided as could be considered as a coercing situation is forcing drivers on the left lane to change lane i.e by flashing. Not very respectful attitude.

TRAIN
Main train Station
Hauptbahnhof
Berlin's new Hauptbahnhof "Berlin-Hbf" (central railway station) has been under construction since the city's reunification and was opened in May 2006.
Cafes, shops and many other various services are spread along its multi-level structure, partly in a tunnel, made of glass, concrete and iron.

AIR
Schöenefeld Airport SFX is expanding to become Berlin Brandenburg Airport. Tempelhof airport was already closed on october 2008 and Berlin's Tegel will be as well.
All air traffic will be concentrated on the Berlin Brandenburg Airport, Southeast of the city from October 2013.
Berlin Brandenburg Airport will offer travellers and companies a high-tech airport with international connections, direct motorway access, and a train station underneath the terminal building from where the airport shuttle will take only 20 minutes to travel into the Berlin city centre.
It is believe that Berlin Brandenburg Airport will improve life in the region as hundreds of thousands of  residents won't longer have to live with aircraft noise due to the closing of Tegel and Tempelhof airports.
From the airport there are bus and tram services to town. Another option is getting a rental car previously booked online with British Car Hire.

Tegel TXL
Tegel does not have any rail or U-Bahn connections and the fare zone of buses VBB is A.
It is scheduled to close in 2013, when it will be replaced by the new Berlin Brandenburg International Airport (BER).
As Schöenefeld Airport, British Car Hire rental vehicles suppliers are located at the terminal building.

BY BOAT
Berlin has an extensive network of rivers, lakes and canals. River Havel and Spree are most navigable and as a consequence of that, ferry transport, inaugurated in 1896 is part of the transport offer of Berlin.
Did you know that Berlin city, with its 1,700 bridges, has more bridges than Venice itself!
One of them was designed by the famous Spanish architect, who has designed art works world-wide: Calatrava.

Boat sailing the Spree

CULTURAL OFFER

MITTE borough encompasses Berlin's historic core and includes some of the most important tourist sites of Berlin like Museum Island, Brandenburg Gate, Unter den Linden, Potsdamer Platz, the Reichstag and Berlin Hauptbahnhof, most of which were in former East Berlin.



Palace of Tears
Palace of Tears

Friedrichstrasse Bahnhof known as "Tränenpalast" or "Palace of Tears" was a border where many goodbyes were said when people crossed to West Berlin.
There is a permanent photography exhibition at the platform between lane 1 & 2 about the stages of the station through its history. There are also pictures about the construction and falling of the wall.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
Considered by many as controversial and even unnecessary, it is a monument to the Jewish victims of the Holocaust. It consists on 9,000 sqm site covered with 2,711 concrete slabs displayed in a grid pattern. It is placed South of the Brandenburg Gate.

MUSEUMS
Since 1999, "Museums Island" is located in the UNESCO-listed Heritage due to its cultural and architectonic complex unique in the world.

Schloss Charlottenburg
Dated on 1699, the largest palace in Berlin and former theatre is now a building that hosts the Museum for Pre- and Early History, whit items from the Troy excavations from XIX century. Gardens are opened to the public and can be visited for no charge.

Altes Museum
Berlin’s oldest museum (1830) is located opposite at the Lustgarten (which means Pleasure Garden) and is home of very important Greek and Roman holdings.

In Museums Island by Uxia Olsson
Altes Museum presides the Lustgarten
Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery)
Along the Kupfergraben channel, this building designed to be like a temple, is home to sculptures and paintings dated on the XIX century.


No, it is not Athens by Uxia Olsson
Greek design for the Old National Gallery

Pergamonmuseum
One of the most popular attractions in Berlin, the Pergamon Museum is world famous for its archaeological holdings. The Pergamon is divided in three museums – Classical Antiquities, Ancient Near East, and Islamic Art.
In the first one, there is the 2nd century BC Pergamon Altar, a Hellenistic masterpiece which gives its name to the museum; and the "Market Gate of Miletus" is an example of Roman architecture.

and completing the group,
Bode-Museum, building of three wings and dominating dome which exterior facades border the banks of the river Spree where a Sculpture Collection,a Numismatic Colletion and Gemäldegalerie works (Old Master Paintings) are displayed.

Not as magnificent as Bilbao's by Uxia Olsson
Rent a bike from the Guggenheim
Deutsche Guggenheim Berlin
Located at the ground floor of the Deutsche Bank premises on the boulevard Unter den Linden, between the Brandenburger Gate and The Museums Island. The Deutsche Bank was founded in 1870 and owns the largest company art collection in the world (over 50,000 works)

THE WALL Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer
Chantting the motto "We are the people, we are a nation" Berliners from both Eastern and Western sides overthrew the iron wall. There was not violence, not a bullet because people refused to.
The symbolic impact of what happened on the 9th November 1989 will remain for History and on the awareness and collective memory of the Germans.

Concrete canvas by Uxia Olsson
Wall along the Spree
There are just a few meters of wall left along Berlin and the Ostbahnhof station is the nearest to the longest part of the wall remains.
The wall is now used by graffiti painters as the canvas for their art.
Also quirky bar YAAM facilities can be found next to the wall and along the river Spree, offering a garden area, real beach sand volleyball and basket courts. The walls are decorated with graffitis, of course and the music played is kind of reggae.

I forgot my volley ball by Uxia Olsson
Yaam bar's garden











PRENZLAUER BERG
Cozy residential neighbourhood North Est AlexanderPlatz where many University buildings can be found. I must say that even when Berlin local authorities keep the streets and the parks very well maintained, I was surprised to see that a little garden in this area was absolutely filthy. See photo...
Rubbish on a Berlin's street? by Uxia Olsson
Perhaps the only messy garden in Berlin

Symbol of social values by Uxia Olsson
Karl Marx Street's facade

HUMAN
Occupies the whole ground floor of one of the skyscrapers in the corner of the Alexanderstrasse and the quality of the clothes and other stuff as bags and even toys is unbelievable. So far the best second hand shop I have ever been in.





After a long day walking, recovering strength can be done in the beer garden called "Biergarten", where good deals or menu of the day are offered. Have a look at my big steak with its garnish for only 6.90€!
Lecker by Uxia Olsson
Meal-Deal on Wednesdays
The amenity that Wednesday was the traditional music band playing live. It was worthy to see the couples the joined them, moving around the hall keeping in step.

Traditional costumes by Uxia Olsson
In Biergarten, the smallest beer glass size is a pint!

ANGELA MERCKEL's HOME
The Chancellor's Office building, with the Chancellor's garden and park (Bundeskanzleramt and Kanzlergarten) can easily photographed from a boat when sailing the Spree.
Very nice design by Uxia Olsson
Chancellor's


REICHSTAG home of the Bundestag
It was opened in 1894 and seriously damaged by the bomb attacks during the II World War. Refurbishment started in the 60's was not complete until 1990 when the architect Sir Norman Foster led the works.
The dome made of glass provides the main room where the Bundestag is reunited with light.
Me, the flag and the dome by Uxia Olsson
Foster designed the dome

New Parliament building, opposite shore of the Reichstag
It is called Marie-Elisabeth Lüders House. The construction started in April 1997 and it serves as the scientific service- and infrastructure centre of the Parliament. In addition it accommodates a post office and a sports area.


The building is connected by glass passages over the Spree  with Jakob-Kaiser House and Paul-Löbe House.
Marie-Elisabeth Lüders houses the parliamentary scientific library and German National Library. It happens to be the 3rd biggest Library in the world.
The main function of the Paul-Löbe House building is to provide departments with support functions for parliamentary work in the Reichstag.

ZOOLOGISCHER GARTEN
also Aquarium. To buy the tickets follow the link Zoo Berlin
If you take the boat down the Havel from Berlin to Potsdam you’ll sail past Peacock Island, a nature preserve with diverse landscape styles and picturesque structures built about two hundred years ago. This island was the origin of Berlin’s zoos.
With the German unification Berlin passes to have two zoos, as Tierpark was built before. Between the two and the aquarium, the animal population is the more diverse and rare than any other city.

VICTORY COLUMN
It is located at the 17 Juni Strasse, not far from the Brandenburg Gate.
It was designed to commemorate the Prussian victory in the Danish-Prussian War. Before it was inaugurated on September 1873, Prussia had also won the Austro-Prussian War (1866) and  the Franco-Prussian War, so the column became a symbol of the magnificence of Prussia.
Golden Victory by Uxia Olsson
Nazis moved from its original location


TIERGARTEN
In 1800 this park was used as a hunting area. During the II World War as the population needed wood to keep their homes warm, they were allowed to cut down the trees. After the war, there were only a few hundred of trees left and nowadays the garden has been fully reforested.

Embassies
Along the Avenue Unter den Linden many offcial buildings are located.
One of the most magnificent is the Russian embassy. Many of the other countries have established their representatives in facilities along the Tiergartenstrasse, surrounded by trees and gardens.
At India's embassy by Uxia Olsson
There are more than bears in Berlin...
Kaiser Williams Kirche,
After II World War, the church was partially demolished and the authorities decided not to refurbish it so it will be a reminder of what happened during the warlike conflict.
Just by the old one, a new modern style was built. The interior is a hexagon of blue glass windows that fakes the feeling of being inside an aquarium.

BRANDENBURG GATE
The only remaining gate of the series through which Berlin was entered is now the entry to Unter den Linden, the boulevard which formerly led directly to the city palace of the Prussian monarchs.
Brandenburg gate by Uxia Olsson
L'arc du triumph? Puerta de Alcalá? Victoria's Gate?

POSTDAMMER PLATZ
I was walking by Cancun Bar and happened to hear the music. I felt immediately like going in as the lounge looked very welcoming, a kind of Irish pub despite the Mexican name.  Make sure you order a Franziskaner beer instead of one branded "Kapuziner" as I did... The result of my bad pronunciation of this word was that I got a "cappuccino" coffee!

Daimler is the highest skyscraper.
Sony building is the most emblematic.
Beisheim and Park kolonnaden complete the set of emblematic buildings,which  many of them serve as facilities for the Berlinale festival.
There is a Lego shop in the inner shopping centre which was advertised at that time by a huge giraffe made of Lego pieces.

Lego giraffe by Uxia Olsson
It's even got eyelashes!
More iron and glass by Uxia Olsson
Interior of Sony complex











SOLAR BAR

14th floor high, this bar has two levels. The first one is a chic restaurant ideal for dinner before going upstairs and enjoying a drink in a very fashionable atmosphere. It offers almost 360º views over Berlin and it especially charming in the evenings as the lights are low inside and the city can be seen in all its splendour.
As the entrance is for free and they even provide clients with a free wardrobe service, it is highly recommended to visit this bar instead of paying the 12€ entry in the Fernsehturm. Just a thought...

CATHEDRAL Berliner Dom Am Lustgarten, 1.
The Berlin Cathedral has never been a cathedral in the actual sense of that term since it has never been the seat of a bishop. The bishop of the Evangelical Church in Berlin-Brandenburg is based in St. Mary's Church and Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church. St. Hedwig's Cathedral serves as seat of Berlin's Roman Catholic metropolitan bishop.
Taken from the boat by Uxia Olsson
Berliner Dom viewed from Saint Nikolai

ALEXANDERPLATZ square
They must be boiling by Uxia Olsson
Currywurst at 1.35€!
Best snack at noon by Uxia Olsson
Oooops, I forgot to shoot the huts!
named to honour Alexander I, Tsar of Russia, on his visit to Berlin in 1805. The parts I enjoyed most were the huge shopping centre called Alexa where 180 international retail brands and boutiques share a four levels high building. And the peaceful little garden where the preferred snack of Berliners (currywurst) accompanied by a refreshing beer can be bought from the several huts surrounded by long tables and hammocks that locals and visitors don't mind sharing.
Also, there is always the chance of getting a wurst on the move asking one of the several guys who carrying them in an amazing portable bbq!
From my hammock in Alexanderplatz by Uxia Olsson
Madrid's Pirulí twin



Fernsehturm
I consider the 12€ entry a bit too much, but it is fair to say that the views are incredibly awesome.  With its height of 368 meters, it is the tallest structure in Germany. When the sun shines on the Fernsehturm's tiled stainless steel dome, the reflection usually appears in the form of a cross. This effect was neither predicted nor desired by the planners. Berliners immediately named the luminous cross "Pope's Revenge". The structure was also called "St. Walter" (from Walter Ulbricht).




Neptunbrunnen
Marienkirche was behind my back by Uxia Olsson
Town Hall behind the fountain


The Roman god Neptune is in the center. The four women around him represent the four main rivers of Prussia: Elbe, Rhine, Vistula, and Oder. This fountain is also in the centre of the square, facing the Fernsehturm and both St Mary Church and the Town Hall, right and left.

Rotes Rathaus
Red City Hall is the town hall of Berlin, located in the Mitte district on Rathausstraße near Alexanderplatz. It was built between 1861 and 1869.

Marienkirche
Karl-Liebknecht-Straße. Its exact age is not known, but it was first mentioned in German chronicles in 1292. It is the seat of the bishop of the Evangelical Church.

Humboldt-Box am Schloßplatz
Opposite the Old Museum, the Humboldt University research cube also stands near to the cathedral. The Box is blue and wonky, standing over a huge barren lawn where once was the Palace of the Republic, the Capitol, and even before the City Palace. There are not remains left.

Blueberry for me by Uxia Olsson
Lollipops 
Modern style opposite the old museums by Uxia Olsson
Wonky Humboldt
"Chupa-Chups" garden
Behind the Humboldt Box, there is a esplanade where a monument made of bright colourful lollipops can be visited also seen from the opposite shore of the Spree. Those fans of chupa chups will find the way i have renamed the exhibition very accurate when looking at the photo I took...

Kurfürstendamm
The avenue with four lines of plane trees runs for 3.5 km (2.2 mi) through the Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf borough in Western Berlin. It branches off from the Breitscheidplatz near Bahnhof Zoo and the ruins of the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church and leads southwestward through the Charlottenburg district. At the junction with Joachimstaler Straße it passes the Café Kranzler, successor of the Café des Westens, a famous venue for artists and bohémiens of the pre-World-War-I era. High amount of shops and boutiques can be found both sides of this avenue.

SAINT NIKOLAI
Destroyed during the II World War was rebuilt by the communists occupiers trying to imitate the original shapes and materials.
Many little antique shops with lovely and sometimes quirky decorative articles.
In the heart of this little area Nikolaikirch the oldest church in Berlin is erected showing the two twin towers of green roof.
In old Saint Nikolai quarter by Uxia Olsson
Saint Nikolai twin towers

BUNKERS Brunnenstraße, 105.
There are more than 3000 underneath the city. A guide will lead the excursion throught the tunnels of the Underwelten Museum.

From the train station by Uxia Olsson
Posh dome in posh Postdam
POSTDAM
on the River Havel, 24 kilometres of Berlin city centre, is the capital of the state of Brandenburg and until 1918 the residence of the Prussian kings and German Kaisers. Getting Postdam is also possible by road, driving on one of the several motorways that served the city, and by train on the S7 S-Bahn line.
Due to Its religious tolerance, Postdam was a centre of  immigration, attracting people from many different parts of Europe.
Around the city there are a series of interconnected lakes and unique cultural landmarks that I will enumerate now:

The most popular attraction in Potsdam is Sanssouci Park, the largest World Heritage Site in Germany.
The German court adopted the French as official language as they considered it so polite and posh. The name of this complex "Sanssouci" comes from the French "sans souci"  as the King Frederick the Great wanted to live in a palace place here "without worries".


Exterior design by Uxia Olsson
Made of wood home of an architect studio
The Orangery Palace (Orangerieschloss), was used to accommodate the foreign royal guests.
The New Palace (Neues Palais) is a much larger palace than Sanssouci, having over 200 rooms. Nowadays it houses parts of the University of Potsdam.

Along the main avenue by Uxia Olsson
New Palace
The Charlottenhof Palace (Schloss Charlottenhof)
The Roman Baths (Römische Bäder), not original from the Roman Empire but built in 1829-1840.
The Chinese Tea House (Chinesisches Teehaus), built in a Chinese style, the fashion at XIX century.

Three gates from the original city wall remain today.
The oldest is the Hunters' Gate (Jägertor)
The Nauener Tor was built in 1755 and close to the historic Dutch Quarter.
The ornate Brandenburg Gate gives entrance to the western old town.

The Old Market Square (Alter Markt) is Potsdam's historical city centre.
Presiding the pedestrian quarter by uxia Olsson
French Church
For three centuries this was the site of the City Palace (Stadtschloß), a royal palace built in 1662. Under Frederick the Great, the palace became the winter residence of the Prussian kings.
The palace was severely damaged by bombing in 1945 and demolished in 1961 by the Communist authorities.
In 2002 the Fortuna Gate (Fortunaportal) was rebuilt in its original historic position, which marks the first step in the reconstruction of the palace.

The Old Market Square is dominated today by the dome of St. Nicholas' Church (Nikolaikirche), built in 1837 in the classical style.

The eastern side of the Market Square is dominated by the Old City Hall (Altes Rathaus), built in 1755

North of the Old Market Square is the oval French Church (Französische Kirche), erected in the 1750s by Boumann for the Huguenot community.

Another landmark of Potsdam is the two-street Dutch Quarter (Holländisches Viertel), an ensemble of buildings that is unique in Europe, with about 150 houses built of red bricks in the Dutch style. It was built between 1734 and 1742 under the direction of Jan Bouman to be used by Dutch artisans and craftsmen who had been invited to settle here by King Frederick Wilhelm I. Today, this area is one of Potsdam's most visited districts. Buildings are just a couple of levels high and many tunnels lead to interior courtyards where coffee shops and charming little restaurants are awaiting the visitor in their flowery decoration.
Wonderful fireplace inside by Uxia Olsson
Wallhalla venues from 1738
North of the city centre is the Russian colony of Alexandrowka, a small enclave of Russian architecture (including an Orthodox chapel) built in 1825 for a group of Russian immigrants, soldiers invited to amuse the royalty with their dances and singings . Since 1999, the colony has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

East of the Alexandrowka colony is a large park, the New Garden (Neuer Garten), which was laid out from 1786 in the English style. The site contains two palaces; the Cecilienhof, and the Marmorpalais (Marble Palace) Also nearby is the tropical botanical garden called Biosphäre Potsdam.


SOME OTHER THINGS TO NOT MISS...

BERLINALE  07-17.02.2013
The average of films shown during the history of the festival is 400 per year. The venues are located around Postdammer Platz, where also hotels like Marriot, Ritz or Carlton host the festival visitors.
But the Berlinale is not only about films shown on a screen and celebrities shown on a red carpet... They also provide weak film industries with funds and offer amateur directors to stay in Berlin working with mentors and experts: This connection between Berninale and market is a sole characteristic of the festival.

Friedrichshain
The Punk neighborhood. It can be found along Karl-Marx alle and Frankfurter alle. For those who arrive by metro, the stop is U5 SamariterStrasse. From here, when facing the  Fernsehturm, framed by the Frankfurter Tor; on your right and parallel to the main avenue, Rigaerstrasse, the official punk street is located.
Apart from the houses they occupy, there are many bars they manage. One of them is accessed through a sewer. This sewer is placed under the bars called "Fishladen" and "Das Loch".

The Ramones Museum
Punk rock legends The Ramones come from New York, but their biggest fan might just be from Berlin. Florian Hayler collected hundreds of Ramones-related items, and attended more than 100 Ramones concerts, then decided to collect his expertise and souvenirs in a museum. It debuted in 2005, a year after the death of founding band member Johnny Ramone.
The current museum opened in October 2008 after a move and an expansion. On display are childhood photos of the group, gig set lists, fliers from the band’s early days and a vast collection of concert t-shirts. If you bop ‘til you drop, the Ramones Museum’s Café Mania has drinks, snacks and light meals on offer.
The museum, located just off Oranienburger Strasse near art house Tacheles and the New Synagogue, also hosts movie screenings, acoustic shows, and Ramones-related special events.

Trabi Safari is a trip around the city during what you drive your own Trabi. The very popular car in the East once is now back to gladness of nostalgic fans of East vehicles.

Trip on a boat
There are many companies operating along the river Spree offering excursions for one hour or so. A recorded explanation will give the main information in German and there are also devices for those individuals from other nationalities. Catering and drinks are also available on board.
As these services are offered by all of them, do not mind walking and finding out the timetable and the fares from a few of them so you will be sure you will get the best deal!

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Uxia Olsson

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

MADRID - A gem in Southern Europe


I would like to share with all of you this post which I believe quite complete about the most interesting experiences the capital city of Spain offers its visitors.

Barrio de las Letras from the Golden Century by Uxía
Madrid castizo 
Madrid is the financial centre of Southern Europe, the most visited place in Spain and the third largest city in Europe after London and Berlin, with a population of almost 3 and a half million inhabitants (more than 6 million including the surroundings).

Given that Spain is a very tourist place as it's the 4th most visited country in the world, it won't sound odd that Madrid hosts the World Tourism Organisation headquarters.

Both using the public transport and driving a rental car will be the better options to move when visiting Madrid and July and August might be the best time of the year to pop around this city as it becomes quieter during summer holidays.

Madrid is candidate for the 3rd time in a row to host the Olympics in 2020, competing this time against Tokyo and Istanbul. The result of the International Olympic Committee will be known in Sept 2013.

WARNING :- Please don't try to complete all the tours suggested in this blog in too short a time...


ARRIVING IN MADRID

By AIR
Flying into Madrid Barajas Airport (MAD) with any of the more than 80 airlines that operate at this airport that takes its name from the town where it's located.
Reaching Madrid city is easy on public transport, but perhaps more convenient is collecting at the airport your own rental car previously booked online with British Car Hire, specially if there are many people in your group or you carry a lot of luggage.

Alcalá and Gran Vía merging by Uxía
Popular buildings in Alcalá St
By TRAIN
Arriving by AVE in Atocha train station from Santa Justa train station in Sevilla and from Pintor Sorolla train station in Valencia.
There are also many regular lines from every province capital and main cities connecting to Madrid arriving either to :

Atocha  which is the station where most railway lines from Eastern and Southern Spain depart/arrive,
or
Chamartín  the second main station and centralise the traffic from and to Northern Spain.
Bus and metro lines are available to and from both stations.

There used to be another railway station operating in the West named Príncipe Pío, very close to the Oriente Palace now reconverted into a classy shopping centre with cinemas and restaurants.

By CAR
Driving a car from British Car Hire previously rented online and collected in one of the their many locations in Spain, such as airports, bus and train stations or even ferry ports i.e. from North Africa and Baleares Islands with Balearia  or from UK with Direct Ferries.
Due to its location in the centre of the Spanish mainland, Madrid is connected by radial roads and highways with (clockwise) Irún (right in the border with France), Barcelona, Valencia, Cádiz, Badajoz (nearby the border with Portugal) and A Coruña.

By BUS
There are 4 main bus stations also known as "intercambiadores" (exchangers) due the large amount of subway, bus and even train lines that merge in each of them: Avenida de América located in the East of Madrid; Moncloa (North West); Aeropuerto (North East); y Estación Méndez Álvaro in the South East which is also the one that manages all the lines connected to the rest of Spain and abroad.


WHAT TO VISIT

Knowing Madrid properly is worth a life as the phrase "de Madrid al cielo" (from Madrid to heaven) can suggest. Madrileños are very proud of their town and they believe that there is nothing better than Madrid but heaven.

The routes I describe below have been written following the axis of the Paseo de la Castellana Avenue which crosses Madrid from South to North along for more than 10 km.

ESTACIÓN AVE ATOCHA, MUSEO DEL PRADO, MUSEO THYSSEN BORNEMISZA, PARQUE DEL RETIRO, PUERTA DE ALCALÁ Y CALLE ALCALÁ, BARRIO DE SALAMANCA, AVENIDA DE LA CASTELLANA

First thing a traveller can see as soon as getting in Atocha is the botanical garden kept inside the train station facilities.
Many trains giving service to the surroundings and the subway line 1 serves from this station.
Once outside the building, there are two ways that could be chosen: (1) leading to the Royal Botanic Garden in the corner of Paseo del Prado which will join Paseo de Recoletos and the Castellana Avenue or
(2) towards the Retiro Park
to both end at Plaza Cibeles from where we will keep going North.

(1) Paseo del Prado takes its name from the Prado Museum, building designed in 1785 that keeps one of the most important art collections in the world.
Las Meninas at Paseo del Prado, Cibeles, Paseo de Recoletos
Las Meninas went out the Prado Museum
Also in this street the Thyssen Museum, located at the Villahermosa Palace, shows more than 1000 pieces from the former private collection of the baron which the Spanish government acquired in the 90's.
Museum Reina Sofía is not far from the Thyssen, giving the impression that most of the art centres in Madrid are located nearby the Atocha station.

Behind the Reina Sofía Museum, the very "castizo" (means very typical and authentic) neighborhood of Lavapiés welcomes the visitors to a colourful, multicultural experience.
It used to be the area where most immigrants established their homes and their little businesses. Nowadays it has become one of the most popular quarters to go for dinner and a first drink in the evening.

Not far form Museo Reina Sofía, the Museo Circo Price and La Casa Encendida, both in Ronda de Valencia are samples of the modern and alternative Madrid's cultural offer.

Huertas
Northen Lavapiés, Barrio de Huertas can be found on the left in our way to Cibeles following the Castellana track.
Quirky decoration in Los GatosInn  by Uxía
Los Gatos Inn
Los Gatos is a bar funny decorated with religious and toreo art items mixed altogether in a very tight space.
Many other traditional tascas and tabernas where to enjoy "callos" or some other typical dishes are awaiting both sides of the pedestrian streets while walking up the hill.
Old stone buildings and paths take the visitor to the "House Where Cervantes Died" and the bars of Plaza Santa Ana as "Viva Madrid", the oldest bar in the city which it dates from 1856.

View over Eastern Madrid by Uxía
"El Pirulí" from Reina Victoria Hotel
A little further up from the Santa Ana square, where the Reina Victoria Hotel offers one the most chic and popular roof terraces in Madrid,
España Cañí bar shows how an old cellar used to look centuries ago. With a drink, clients will always get some serrano ham which is cut in front of them or any kind of cure meats as free tapa from la casa (on the house).

Barrio de las Letras
This area is known because some of the most relevant writers of the Golden Century (named so because the magnificence and quantity of the literary production) as Lope de Vega, Quevedo or Góngora.
It also hosted the "de la Cruz" and "del Príncipe" theatres, two of the most important "corrales de comedias" or open-air auditoriums at that time.
At 87 Atocha St the printer Juan Cuesta was located. This man was the one who did the first Don Quijote print run (1604) which is considered the most outstanding Spanish novel of all times.
Most of the Barrio de las Letras constructions were built during late XIX and beginning of XX centuries as from the Golden Century time there are just a few well maintained buildings left, as Lope de Vega House-Museum, where the writer lived from 1610 until 1635, Convento de San Ildefonso, where Miguel de Cervantes was buried, and San Sebastián church.


(2) Going North from Atocha, through Alfonso XII street we can soon reach one of the many gates that lead into the Retiro Park, the largest one in town.
Romantic soiree rowing a little boat by Uxia
Retiro Park lake
Not far from Prado Museum, this park did once belong to the monarchy as pleasant retreat facilities. That explains why some many palaces, sculptures and other monuments can be found through its 1'4 km2.
Also a lake where to row a rented boat is the perfect scene for a romantic evening. Please check the opening hours at http://www.parquedelretiro.es
Do not forget to have a refreshing drink in one of the many kiosks that can be found around the lake before carrying on with this proposed long tour around the Spanish capital...

Once crossed Retiro park, the impressive Alcalá Gate erects in the centre of a roundabout in the street with the same name.
Mírala, mírala... la puerta de Alcalá de Ana Belén by Uxía
Alcalá Gate stars its own song...
This Alcalá St. is one of the oldest one in Madrid and the longest one, as it crosses town along 10,5 km from the Km 0 in Plaza del Sol towards to East part of the city.

One of the gorgeous buildings in Cibeles circus by Uxía
Palacio de las Telecomunicaciones
Many emblematic buildings and monuments can be found lengthwise: Real Academia de Bellas Artes, Edificio Metrópolis of French design influence in the corner with Gran Vía,
Instituto Cervantes the institution dedicated to take Spanish culture and language around the world, Círculo de Bellas Artes,
Fuente de Cibeles, surrounding the fountain: Palacio de las Telecomunicaciones, Banco de España, Casa de América, Palacio de Buenavista (Army headquarters);
and the bullring Las Ventas, the largest one in Spain and the third one in the world after México and Valencia (Venezuela) and the most important worldwide according to the experts.
For those interested in bull fighting: http://www.las-ventas.com.

Plaza de Cibeles
Cibeles ready to deal with Real Madrid supporters
Located where Paseo del Prado ends and Paseo de Recoletos starts when going to Northen Madrid.
It takes the name from the sculpture of the Greek goddess Cibeles that presides the circus from her carriage.
Nowadays and because this fountain is the emblem of Madrid city, fans of the Real Madrid football team come up to this circus to celebrate their team's victories.
If you wish to join the celebration, be aware that in prevention of any damage that can be caused to the sculpture when supporters climbing it, police barriers surround the fountain efficiently...

Chueca
Lonely Planet describes it as "extravagantly gay, lively young, and always inclusive regardless of your sexual orientation".
This quarter in Madrid offers of course the most trendy suggestions to enjoy the evening.


Emerging from Sevilla subway station by Uxía
Between Chueca and Sevilla
Start to get a room in Vázquez de Mella Square nearby the Alcalá St and "Sleep With Me" in the Oscar Room Mate hotel after enjoying the superb views in their terrace.
Ex Libris restaurant is a must. Go for their 4 courses degustation menu with a special offer during weekdays.

The Madrid gay parade has evolved to become one of the largest in the world. More than 300,000 foreigners have visited Madrid at the beginning of July this year to join the outdoor bars and scenes for 5 days.

From Chueca, walk a few minutes to the Tribunal area and find The Sala Barco club  in the St of same name. Eclectic, minimal decoration, they play dj sessions and live music serving drinks at reasonable prices.

If what you fancy is to end dancing until the sun rises, don't miss the dj sessions and go-go's at La Ohm   in one of the dozens of theatre's facilities located in Gran Vía Avenue.

Colón circus
It is one of the financial areas in Madrid that will be passed by when following the proposed route.

Below the 17m high Spanish flag that happens to be the largest flag in the world due to its 300 m2 area, there are many benches where to rest after walking the whole Paseo de Recoletos which welcome our sore feet before getting into the National Library and the National Archaeologic Museum.

From Colón,
1. Turning right: the most exclusive neighbourhood in town starts from Goya St onwards. Chocolate con churros for breakfast in one of the many terraces around the are is a must.
Madrileños love this quirky meal that much that enjoying churros with the colleagues at work on Friday when coffee break has become a habit. To make things easier there are companies that deliver churros and porras (bigger version) so getting up early on Sundays to go and buy them will be no necessary any more.

A good option to enjoy a quick and easy meal in a young great atmosphere would be The Geographic. For those that like to try different I would suggest to enjoy a traditional "torrezno" (I am not going to describe what a torrezno is, just go and find yourselves) at Los Torreznos nearby the Palacio de los Deportes Stadium, where I used to train fencing with the Club de Esgrima and where live music and concerts take place frequently.

Even when Madrid's plot distribution follows a circular shape, Barrio de Salamanca happens to be structured in a regular grid shape.
Exclusive boutiques as Dior, Gucci or Chanel in Serrano and Velázquez Streets live close to both modern and traditional (like Mercado de la Paz in Ayala St. established in 1882) delicatessen shops.
Treat yourself with a few grams of non artificial ingredients sweets in Oomuombo in Núñez de Balboa St. or enjoy a coffee in ABC Serrano, the neomudéjar (kind of neo-arabic style vey popular at the end of the 19th century in Spain) building that once hosted the ABC newspaper headquarters and that has been reconverted into a modern shopping centre with some leisure offer as well.

2. Turning left Bilbao and Malasaña
Manuela Malasaña was a beloved heroine who died being 17 in 1808 fighting French invaders.

In front of the Bilbao subway station, Café Comercial, one of the city's oldest cafés as founded 1887, it was a center for men of letters gatherings during the period following the Spanish Civil War and one of the first cafés in Madrid employing women to serve tables.

From Bilbao circus, one of the most popular and fashionable hairdressers in Madrid "Juan, por Dios" can be found in Manuela Malasaña street. 3 years ago They proved to me that short hair is the very one for me... I still trust them.

Very close to the Teatro Maravillas, the restaurant Nina Madrid combines in an old brick building modern cuisine and classy decoration. An affordable 33€ testing menu is also available Sunday, Monday and Tuesday evenings.

Areia Cocktails bar with arabic and colonial decoration where to lay down enjoying drinks and laughs with good friends.

During the 80's, the well known in Spain "Movida Madrileña" life style was born in the locals and bars of this area. To read more about this subject http://www.madrid-uno.com/society/movida.htm

Plaza del 2 de Mayo
The rebellion against the French occupation took place in this square.
Walking Malasaña and Bilbao by Uxía
Pepe Botella would surely refuse
Enjoy the best tintos de verano and pizzas at Pizzería Maravillas under the shade of the trees.
A visit to the toilet is well worth just as an excuse to have a look inside:- very tiny room and a cozy spiral staircase to a basement floor.

For a great atmosphere and wonderful food don't hesitate to visit Pepe Botella bar, named after the nickname that Spanish people used to know Jose I, the brother of Napoleon Bonaparte, due his presumably avocation to drink...
KPMG towers in Plaza de Lima by Uxía
Casillas looks at the Bernabeu from Plaza de Lima






After saying goodbye to Malasaña sadly, and once we join the Castellana Av again, we will find ourselves in AZCA.
The financial centre of AZCA, the most important one in the city includes Plaza de Lima, Plaza de Cuzco and Plaza de Castilla.


Plaza de Lima circus
We will see on our left the Palacio Municipal de Exposiciones y Congresos (after 35 years of experience it is known as one of the more important conventions centre in the world); and the Real Madrid F.C. Stadium on our right.
Bernabéu Southern facade in Concha Espina Avenue by Uxía
Bernabeu Stadium and its shopping centre
First named as "Chamartín Stadium" was finished in 1977 and it had capacity for 125,000 spectators. Its name was changed in 1978 in honour of the President Santiago Bernabéu.
Real Madrid modernised all of the structures of the stadium aiming to make the facilities more comfortable in 1998. Also it began the project of an open 365 days stadium: perfume and retail shops as well restaurants are open to public in the building annexed "La Esquina del Bernabéu" shopping centre.
In 2007, year of Santiago Bernabéu's 60th anniversary, UEFA intended to include it in their Elite Stadiums' list.


More than 2,500 people work organised and efficiently in the venues in order to provide the best service during match days.
Amazing atmosphere, not that great match by Uxía
Real Madrid - Valencia Aug. 19th, 2012
Not far from here, in alberto Alcocer St, the worldwide known chef Ferrá Adriá opened his first "Fast Good Restaurant" in the NH Eurobuilding Hotel attempting to revolutionise the fast food concept trying to show that also fast food could be made and served with care and quality.

Plaza de Castilla circus
The Statistics Institute buidilng facade decoration hides a secret... It hides a digital diagram of 10 sounds. What is this about? There are 58 coloured panels that cover the windows. Each of them is a number and also a musical note.
The combination of both compounds a melody and also builds up statistic figures about Spain: number of inhabitants, of houses, of companies,...

The Torres Kio, Bankia headquarters, are the first leaning skyscrapers in the world.

Once we have passed between the towers of funny shape (once the highest in Madrid), we will be able to get into the

Cuatro Torres business area
These four towers are the highest in Spain and host many offices and also a hotel and a restaurant with the most amazing views above Madrid.
They have been built in the former Sport City of Real Madrid, area where the players train and now located in Valdebebas in between Madrid and the Barajas airport, where they also provide facilities for the second league teams.
Torre Caja Madrid was designed by the famous architect Norman Foster, who I have the pleasure to meet many years ago while we both were having dinner with our families in the prestigious Manolito Restaurant in La Coruña, Galicia, motherland of both his wife Elena Ochoa and me.

For those interested in knowing how Torre Espacio was built, check this link out http://www.1channel.ch/tv-417737-Extreme-Engineering/season-4-episode-6

OUT OF this first trip along Castellana Av we will keep finding areas where the tradition and the heart of Madrid live...

PUERTA DEL SOL, PLAZA DE ESPAÑA, ARENAL, ÓPERA, PALACIO DE ORIENTE, CATEDRAL ALMUDENA, LA LATINA

Bells and grapes, roads, protesters, lovers meet here by Uxía
Almost the centre of Spain mainland
Puerta del Sol is the centre (Km 0) of the radial network of Spanish roads.
The square contains the famous clock whose bells mark the traditional eating of the Twelve Grapes when welcoming the New Year and is also a popular meeting point because the proximity to the subway and its connections.
A Galician touch in the heart of Madrid can be found in Bar O Miño (name of the main Galician river) is proud to serve one of the best "bocadillo de calamares" in town. I guess many of the protesters who join quite often this square claiming the rights set during that emblematic "15-M" turn up inside asking for one of those in order to get their strength back

Also the popular Joy Slava Club is in Arenal by Uxía
La Tuna is not in the sun anymore
Walking Calle Arenal, we will find plenty of shops and little cafés and bars. They have started to provide some shade to this street during the warmest months of the year by hanging some canvas from one facade to the other. It reminds me what they also do in Calle Larios in Málaga to stop the strong sun rays.
This is one of the favourite routes that the "Tuna" bands walk while singing to the girls and livening the strollers up with their songs, their voices and their guitars.
Tuna are University student music bands that date as far as 1215. They were begun by those students who needed moneys to pay their studies.
A good example of the inner of this old buildings is the bar called "sidrería" as they are specialised in "sidra" (cider) where the basements were once cellars in caves with gates made of iron.

The largest palace in Western Europe by Uxía
A conner of the Royal Palace

At the end of Arenal, Isabel II square (Opera subway station) and its Teatro Real are the lobby to the magnificence of the Royal Palace facilities.
Sabatini Gardens, Campo del Moro and Lepanto Gardens provide the green touch while framing the largest palace in Western Europe, with more than 3,000 rooms.
The Royal Palace is proud to host the "Stradivarius Palatinos" the most rare and expensive collection of these violins in the world.

The youngest cathedral in Spain by Uxía
La Almudena, pride of the Madrileños
Almudena Cathedral was completed in 1993 when Pope John Paul II consecrated it. This temple was built as result of the need of a cathedral for the new capital of Spain when this title passed from Toledo to Madrid.

Cuchilleros down from Plaza de España to La Latina by Uxía
Buildings of funny shape
On Sundays it is already a tradition to spend the day in La Latina quarter.
Walking the Street market close by Puerta de Toledo during the morning is a must before joining friends to have the "vermú" that kind of drink we have in Spain around noon before we start with the more serious stuff of sitting down and have proper lunch.
Also "vermú" took its name from the well known spirit that in Madrid is usually "homemade" as it comes straight from the barrel and it is ver appreciated by customers.






In La Latina, Posada de la Villa Restaurant is almost hidden from the non expertise in the area as the building doesn't show much of the inside.
For the superb roast lamb in a brick oven Castilian style and a matching service, this place is highly recommended.




Mercado de San Miguel
The only market made of iron that still in use nowadays.
It has been rebuilt not long ago to convert it in a new modern concept of what a market can offer to buyers.
Not only groceries can be found now, also posts where to get the drinks and then move to next one to find what food we would like to match with the drinks are all around.
It is a cover market so very ideal in winter season but as well in summer as fans and sprayed water keep clients and visitors cool.



And an especial mention to...
Alcalá de Henares
Birthplace of Miguel de Saavedra y Cervantes, one of the most important and popular writers in the world.
This old town happens to be the second largest in the Comunity of Madrid and also an UNESCO Human Heritage place.
I am not going to get into detail with Alcalá as it deserves a whole chapter in my blog.
To be continued...


THINGS TO TRY

The VI Edition of "La noche en blanco",  biannual cultural festival, will take place in September this year.

If you prefer the commodity of being driven and showing the most popular amenities in Madrid, then go for an open roof bus
Be aware that most of the old quarters are pedestrian areas so if you wish to see those you will need to exercise anyway.

Callos and cocido
The traditional dishes are worthy to try and can be found in most of the bars and restaurants in this big city.
Cocido is a winter season traditional meal but callos are served the whole year around. If you happen to like them, why do not try to cook a pot of this rich stew yourself  ?

TIPS
If you keep going North following the track I proposed in this article, you will reach the A1 highway and at some point, Alcobendas, hometown of our most international actress Penélope Cruz.

Do not get offended if you are asked for money by your party friends... it is quite common in Spain to collect money from all the members of the group when going out. One of them will keep the money and administrate it so it will be easier when paying at the locals instead of asking for many different bills.
It is called "Bote" as if the money were kept in a tin. Sharing is caring!!