I would like to share with all of you this post which I believe quite complete about the most interesting experiences the capital city of Spain offers its visitors.
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| Madrid castizo |
Given that Spain is a very tourist place as it's the 4th most visited country in the world, it won't sound odd that Madrid hosts the World Tourism Organisation headquarters.
Both using the public transport and driving a rental car will be the better options to move when visiting Madrid and July and August might be the best time of the year to pop around this city as it becomes quieter during summer holidays.
Madrid is candidate for the 3rd time in a row to host the Olympics in 2020, competing this time against Tokyo and Istanbul. The result of the International Olympic Committee will be known in Sept 2013.
WARNING :- Please don't try to complete all the tours suggested in this blog in too short a time...
ARRIVING IN MADRID
By AIR
Flying into Madrid Barajas Airport (MAD) with any of the more than 80 airlines that operate at this airport that takes its name from the town where it's located.
Reaching Madrid city is easy on public transport, but perhaps more convenient is collecting at the airport your own rental car previously booked online with British Car Hire, specially if there are many people in your group or you carry a lot of luggage.
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| Popular buildings in Alcalá St |
Arriving by AVE in Atocha train station from Santa Justa train station in Sevilla and from Pintor Sorolla train station in Valencia.
There are also many regular lines from every province capital and main cities connecting to Madrid arriving either to :
Atocha which is the station where most railway lines from Eastern and Southern Spain depart/arrive,
or
Chamartín the second main station and centralise the traffic from and to Northern Spain.
Bus and metro lines are available to and from both stations.
There used to be another railway station operating in the West named Príncipe Pío, very close to the Oriente Palace now reconverted into a classy shopping centre with cinemas and restaurants.
By CAR
Driving a car from British Car Hire previously rented online and collected in one of the their many locations in Spain, such as airports, bus and train stations or even ferry ports i.e. from North Africa and Baleares Islands with Balearia or from UK with Direct Ferries.
Due to its location in the centre of the Spanish mainland, Madrid is connected by radial roads and highways with (clockwise) Irún (right in the border with France), Barcelona, Valencia, Cádiz, Badajoz (nearby the border with Portugal) and A Coruña.
By BUS
There are 4 main bus stations also known as "intercambiadores" (exchangers) due the large amount of subway, bus and even train lines that merge in each of them: Avenida de América located in the East of Madrid; Moncloa (North West); Aeropuerto (North East); y Estación Méndez Álvaro in the South East which is also the one that manages all the lines connected to the rest of Spain and abroad.
WHAT TO VISIT
Knowing Madrid properly is worth a life as the phrase "de Madrid al cielo" (from Madrid to heaven) can suggest. Madrileños are very proud of their town and they believe that there is nothing better than Madrid but heaven.
The routes I describe below have been written following the axis of the Paseo de la Castellana Avenue which crosses Madrid from South to North along for more than 10 km.
ESTACIÓN AVE ATOCHA, MUSEO DEL PRADO, MUSEO THYSSEN BORNEMISZA, PARQUE DEL RETIRO, PUERTA DE ALCALÁ Y CALLE ALCALÁ, BARRIO DE SALAMANCA, AVENIDA DE LA CASTELLANA
First thing a traveller can see as soon as getting in Atocha is the botanical garden kept inside the train station facilities.
Many trains giving service to the surroundings and the subway line 1 serves from this station.
Once outside the building, there are two ways that could be chosen: (1) leading to the Royal Botanic Garden in the corner of Paseo del Prado which will join Paseo de Recoletos and the Castellana Avenue or
(2) towards the Retiro Park
to both end at Plaza Cibeles from where we will keep going North.
(1) Paseo del Prado takes its name from the Prado Museum, building designed in 1785 that keeps one of the most important art collections in the world.
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| Las Meninas went out the Prado Museum |
Museum Reina Sofía is not far from the Thyssen, giving the impression that most of the art centres in Madrid are located nearby the Atocha station.
Behind the Reina Sofía Museum, the very "castizo" (means very typical and authentic) neighborhood of Lavapiés welcomes the visitors to a colourful, multicultural experience.
It used to be the area where most immigrants established their homes and their little businesses. Nowadays it has become one of the most popular quarters to go for dinner and a first drink in the evening.
Not far form Museo Reina Sofía, the Museo Circo Price and La Casa Encendida, both in Ronda de Valencia are samples of the modern and alternative Madrid's cultural offer.
Huertas
Northen Lavapiés, Barrio de Huertas can be found on the left in our way to Cibeles following the Castellana track.
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| Los Gatos Inn |
Many other traditional tascas and tabernas where to enjoy "callos" or some other typical dishes are awaiting both sides of the pedestrian streets while walking up the hill.
Old stone buildings and paths take the visitor to the "House Where Cervantes Died" and the bars of Plaza Santa Ana as "Viva Madrid", the oldest bar in the city which it dates from 1856.
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| "El Pirulí" from Reina Victoria Hotel |
España Cañí bar shows how an old cellar used to look centuries ago. With a drink, clients will always get some serrano ham which is cut in front of them or any kind of cure meats as free tapa from la casa (on the house).
Barrio de las Letras
This area is known because some of the most relevant writers of the Golden Century (named so because the magnificence and quantity of the literary production) as Lope de Vega, Quevedo or Góngora.
It also hosted the "de la Cruz" and "del Príncipe" theatres, two of the most important "corrales de comedias" or open-air auditoriums at that time.
At 87 Atocha St the printer Juan Cuesta was located. This man was the one who did the first Don Quijote print run (1604) which is considered the most outstanding Spanish novel of all times.
Most of the Barrio de las Letras constructions were built during late XIX and beginning of XX centuries as from the Golden Century time there are just a few well maintained buildings left, as Lope de Vega House-Museum, where the writer lived from 1610 until 1635, Convento de San Ildefonso, where Miguel de Cervantes was buried, and San Sebastián church.
(2) Going North from Atocha, through Alfonso XII street we can soon reach one of the many gates that lead into the Retiro Park, the largest one in town.
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| Retiro Park lake |
Also a lake where to row a rented boat is the perfect scene for a romantic evening. Please check the opening hours at http://www.parquedelretiro.es
Do not forget to have a refreshing drink in one of the many kiosks that can be found around the lake before carrying on with this proposed long tour around the Spanish capital...
Once crossed Retiro park, the impressive Alcalá Gate erects in the centre of a roundabout in the street with the same name.
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| Alcalá Gate stars its own song... |
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| Palacio de las Telecomunicaciones |
Instituto Cervantes the institution dedicated to take Spanish culture and language around the world, Círculo de Bellas Artes,
Fuente de Cibeles, surrounding the fountain: Palacio de las Telecomunicaciones, Banco de España, Casa de América, Palacio de Buenavista (Army headquarters);
and the bullring Las Ventas, the largest one in Spain and the third one in the world after México and Valencia (Venezuela) and the most important worldwide according to the experts.
For those interested in bull fighting: http://www.las-ventas.com.
Plaza de Cibeles
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| Cibeles ready to deal with Real Madrid supporters |
It takes the name from the sculpture of the Greek goddess Cibeles that presides the circus from her carriage.
Nowadays and because this fountain is the emblem of Madrid city, fans of the Real Madrid football team come up to this circus to celebrate their team's victories.
If you wish to join the celebration, be aware that in prevention of any damage that can be caused to the sculpture when supporters climbing it, police barriers surround the fountain efficiently...
Chueca
Lonely Planet describes it as "extravagantly gay, lively young, and always inclusive regardless of your sexual orientation".
This quarter in Madrid offers of course the most trendy suggestions to enjoy the evening.
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| Between Chueca and Sevilla |
Ex Libris restaurant is a must. Go for their 4 courses degustation menu with a special offer during weekdays.
The Madrid gay parade has evolved to become one of the largest in the world. More than 300,000 foreigners have visited Madrid at the beginning of July this year to join the outdoor bars and scenes for 5 days.
From Chueca, walk a few minutes to the Tribunal area and find The Sala Barco club in the St of same name. Eclectic, minimal decoration, they play dj sessions and live music serving drinks at reasonable prices.
If what you fancy is to end dancing until the sun rises, don't miss the dj sessions and go-go's at La Ohm in one of the dozens of theatre's facilities located in Gran Vía Avenue.
Colón circus
It is one of the financial areas in Madrid that will be passed by when following the proposed route.
Below the 17m high Spanish flag that happens to be the largest flag in the world due to its 300 m2 area, there are many benches where to rest after walking the whole Paseo de Recoletos which welcome our sore feet before getting into the National Library and the National Archaeologic Museum.
From Colón,
1. Turning right: the most exclusive neighbourhood in town starts from Goya St onwards. Chocolate con churros for breakfast in one of the many terraces around the are is a must.
Madrileños love this quirky meal that much that enjoying churros with the colleagues at work on Friday when coffee break has become a habit. To make things easier there are companies that deliver churros and porras (bigger version) so getting up early on Sundays to go and buy them will be no necessary any more.
A good option to enjoy a quick and easy meal in a young great atmosphere would be The Geographic. For those that like to try different I would suggest to enjoy a traditional "torrezno" (I am not going to describe what a torrezno is, just go and find yourselves) at Los Torreznos nearby the Palacio de los Deportes Stadium, where I used to train fencing with the Club de Esgrima and where live music and concerts take place frequently.
Even when Madrid's plot distribution follows a circular shape, Barrio de Salamanca happens to be structured in a regular grid shape.
Exclusive boutiques as Dior, Gucci or Chanel in Serrano and Velázquez Streets live close to both modern and traditional (like Mercado de la Paz in Ayala St. established in 1882) delicatessen shops.
Treat yourself with a few grams of non artificial ingredients sweets in Oomuombo in Núñez de Balboa St. or enjoy a coffee in ABC Serrano, the neomudéjar (kind of neo-arabic style vey popular at the end of the 19th century in Spain) building that once hosted the ABC newspaper headquarters and that has been reconverted into a modern shopping centre with some leisure offer as well.
2. Turning left Bilbao and Malasaña
Manuela Malasaña was a beloved heroine who died being 17 in 1808 fighting French invaders.
In front of the Bilbao subway station, Café Comercial, one of the city's oldest cafés as founded 1887, it was a center for men of letters gatherings during the period following the Spanish Civil War and one of the first cafés in Madrid employing women to serve tables.
From Bilbao circus, one of the most popular and fashionable hairdressers in Madrid "Juan, por Dios" can be found in Manuela Malasaña street. 3 years ago They proved to me that short hair is the very one for me... I still trust them.
Very close to the Teatro Maravillas, the restaurant Nina Madrid combines in an old brick building modern cuisine and classy decoration. An affordable 33€ testing menu is also available Sunday, Monday and Tuesday evenings.
Areia Cocktails bar with arabic and colonial decoration where to lay down enjoying drinks and laughs with good friends.
During the 80's, the well known in Spain "Movida Madrileña" life style was born in the locals and bars of this area. To read more about this subject http://www.madrid-uno.com/society/movida.htm
Plaza del 2 de Mayo
The rebellion against the French occupation took place in this square.
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| Pepe Botella would surely refuse |
A visit to the toilet is well worth just as an excuse to have a look inside:- very tiny room and a cozy spiral staircase to a basement floor.
For a great atmosphere and wonderful food don't hesitate to visit Pepe Botella bar, named after the nickname that Spanish people used to know Jose I, the brother of Napoleon Bonaparte, due his presumably avocation to drink...
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| Casillas looks at the Bernabeu from Plaza de Lima |
After saying goodbye to Malasaña sadly, and once we join the Castellana Av again, we will find ourselves in AZCA.
The financial centre of AZCA, the most important one in the city includes Plaza de Lima, Plaza de Cuzco and Plaza de Castilla.
Plaza de Lima circus
We will see on our left the Palacio Municipal de Exposiciones y Congresos (after 35 years of experience it is known as one of the more important conventions centre in the world); and the Real Madrid F.C. Stadium on our right.
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| Bernabeu Stadium and its shopping centre |
Real Madrid modernised all of the structures of the stadium aiming to make the facilities more comfortable in 1998. Also it began the project of an open 365 days stadium: perfume and retail shops as well restaurants are open to public in the building annexed "La Esquina del Bernabéu" shopping centre.
In 2007, year of Santiago Bernabéu's 60th anniversary, UEFA intended to include it in their Elite Stadiums' list.
More than 2,500 people work organised and efficiently in the venues in order to provide the best service during match days.
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| Real Madrid - Valencia Aug. 19th, 2012 |
Plaza de Castilla circus
The Statistics Institute buidilng facade decoration hides a secret... It hides a digital diagram of 10 sounds. What is this about? There are 58 coloured panels that cover the windows. Each of them is a number and also a musical note.
The combination of both compounds a melody and also builds up statistic figures about Spain: number of inhabitants, of houses, of companies,...
The Torres Kio, Bankia headquarters, are the first leaning skyscrapers in the world.
Once we have passed between the towers of funny shape (once the highest in Madrid), we will be able to get into the
Cuatro Torres business area
These four towers are the highest in Spain and host many offices and also a hotel and a restaurant with the most amazing views above Madrid.
They have been built in the former Sport City of Real Madrid, area where the players train and now located in Valdebebas in between Madrid and the Barajas airport, where they also provide facilities for the second league teams.
Torre Caja Madrid was designed by the famous architect Norman Foster, who I have the pleasure to meet many years ago while we both were having dinner with our families in the prestigious Manolito Restaurant in La Coruña, Galicia, motherland of both his wife Elena Ochoa and me.
For those interested in knowing how Torre Espacio was built, check this link out http://www.1channel.ch/tv-417737-Extreme-Engineering/season-4-episode-6
OUT OF this first trip along Castellana Av we will keep finding areas where the tradition and the heart of Madrid live...
PUERTA DEL SOL, PLAZA DE ESPAÑA, ARENAL, ÓPERA, PALACIO DE ORIENTE, CATEDRAL ALMUDENA, LA LATINA
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| Almost the centre of Spain mainland |
The square contains the famous clock whose bells mark the traditional eating of the Twelve Grapes when welcoming the New Year and is also a popular meeting point because the proximity to the subway and its connections.
A Galician touch in the heart of Madrid can be found in Bar O Miño (name of the main Galician river) is proud to serve one of the best "bocadillo de calamares" in town. I guess many of the protesters who join quite often this square claiming the rights set during that emblematic "15-M" turn up inside asking for one of those in order to get their strength back
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| La Tuna is not in the sun anymore |
This is one of the favourite routes that the "Tuna" bands walk while singing to the girls and livening the strollers up with their songs, their voices and their guitars.
Tuna are University student music bands that date as far as 1215. They were begun by those students who needed moneys to pay their studies.
A good example of the inner of this old buildings is the bar called "sidrería" as they are specialised in "sidra" (cider) where the basements were once cellars in caves with gates made of iron.
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| A conner of the Royal Palace |
At the end of Arenal, Isabel II square (Opera subway station) and its Teatro Real are the lobby to the magnificence of the Royal Palace facilities.
Sabatini Gardens, Campo del Moro and Lepanto Gardens provide the green touch while framing the largest palace in Western Europe, with more than 3,000 rooms.
The Royal Palace is proud to host the "Stradivarius Palatinos" the most rare and expensive collection of these violins in the world.
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| La Almudena, pride of the Madrileños |
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| Buildings of funny shape |
Walking the Street market close by Puerta de Toledo during the morning is a must before joining friends to have the "vermú" that kind of drink we have in Spain around noon before we start with the more serious stuff of sitting down and have proper lunch.
Also "vermú" took its name from the well known spirit that in Madrid is usually "homemade" as it comes straight from the barrel and it is ver appreciated by customers.
In La Latina, Posada de la Villa Restaurant is almost hidden from the non expertise in the area as the building doesn't show much of the inside.
For the superb roast lamb in a brick oven Castilian style and a matching service, this place is highly recommended.
Mercado de San Miguel
The only market made of iron that still in use nowadays.
It has been rebuilt not long ago to convert it in a new modern concept of what a market can offer to buyers.
Not only groceries can be found now, also posts where to get the drinks and then move to next one to find what food we would like to match with the drinks are all around.
It is a cover market so very ideal in winter season but as well in summer as fans and sprayed water keep clients and visitors cool.
And an especial mention to...
Alcalá de Henares
Birthplace of Miguel de Saavedra y Cervantes, one of the most important and popular writers in the world.
This old town happens to be the second largest in the Comunity of Madrid and also an UNESCO Human Heritage place.
I am not going to get into detail with Alcalá as it deserves a whole chapter in my blog.
To be continued...
THINGS TO TRY
The VI Edition of "La noche en blanco", biannual cultural festival, will take place in September this year.
If you prefer the commodity of being driven and showing the most popular amenities in Madrid, then go for an open roof bus
Be aware that most of the old quarters are pedestrian areas so if you wish to see those you will need to exercise anyway.
Callos and cocido
The traditional dishes are worthy to try and can be found in most of the bars and restaurants in this big city.
Cocido is a winter season traditional meal but callos are served the whole year around. If you happen to like them, why do not try to cook a pot of this rich stew yourself ?
TIPS
If you keep going North following the track I proposed in this article, you will reach the A1 highway and at some point, Alcobendas, hometown of our most international actress Penélope Cruz.
Do not get offended if you are asked for money by your party friends... it is quite common in Spain to collect money from all the members of the group when going out. One of them will keep the money and administrate it so it will be easier when paying at the locals instead of asking for many different bills.
It is called "Bote" as if the money were kept in a tin. Sharing is caring!!
Thank you Uxia, a very interesting read.
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